Pandemic Hasn't Slowed China's Love for U.S. Lobster

China is showing no signs of slowing its demand for American lobster this year despite disruption to the supply chain and international trade caused by the coronavirus pandemic.

Chinese demand for the crustaceans grew dramatically during the 2010s in part because of the expansion of the country's middle class. The lobsters are especially sought after in winter because they are a popular delicacy on Chinese New Year, which is Feb. 1 this year.

American exporters sent more than 13.2 million pounds (6 million kilograms) of lobster to China during the first 11 months of 2021. That was about 6% more than the same time period the previous year.

The pandemic has made the already difficult task of sending live seafood across the globe more challenging, but Maine lobster exporters are gearing up for a decent Chinese New Year, said Bill Bruns. The operations manager at The Lobster Co. in Arundel said shipments are complicated by the fact the company can't send lobsters to Beijing because of COVID-19 restrictions — but they are able to send to other airports, such as Shenzhen.

"Chinese New Year is always a crapshoot the last couple years," Bruns said. "But I'm prepared for it. I have the staff. Because otherwise it's going to be a long spring."

China buys lobsters from the U.S. — where the industry is based mostly in Maine — and Canada, where the industry is situated in the Atlantic provinces. Exports from Canada were up even more than the U.S. the first 11 months of 2021 compared to 2020, said John Sackton, an industry analyst and founder of SeafoodNews.com.

Signs point to a strong season for the industry, Sackton said. Consumption of seafood could also get a boost from the Beijing Winter Olympics, which are set to start a few days after Chinese New Year, he said.

"I've seen nothing that consumption of lobsters at Chinese New Year this year won't exceed last year's," Sackton said.

The U.S. lobster industry weathered similar challenges during the first year of the pandemic in 2020 and ultimately had a strong export season. The value of exports was down from the record year of 2018, but still well over $100 million.

High prices for lobsters have played a role in the value of this year's exports. The price of a live 1.25-pound hard shell lobster was $11.25 per pound in New England this month, according to business publishing company Urner Barry. That was more than a third higher than January 2021.

To send lobsters to China, American and Canadian fishermen have to trap them in the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Bad weather has made that difficult for Maine fishermen this year, but harvesters are still having a decent winter on the water, said Kristan Porter, president of the Maine Lobstermen's Association.

"When guys get out there, they are doing OK," Porter said. "It takes someone hardier than me to fish the wintertime."